As owner, you probably would want to have a well behaved cockapoo right? Apparently, that is what every dog owner's dream - to have a dog that obeys commands, potty at the right place and never chews, digs or do anything destructive. And that dream can only be achieved through proper cockapoo training.
Training a cockapoo may not be as difficult as it seems to be. There are various training methods and tools available that can be utilized to achieve the desired result. What owners must do is to identify what method or what tool works best for their pet and apply that certain method properly.
The most common method in training is the use of positive reinforcements such as food treats, praise, petting, play time or favorite toy. These positive reinforcements aim to motivate the dog to do the desired behavior repeatedly. Reinforcements are given to the dog after the task has been done or command has been followed thus it is also referred to as reward. When giving food treats as reward, the treat should be enticing to your pet. Soft commercial treats are widely used although hot dogs, cheese and cooked chicken or beef can also be used. Determine which one works best for your cockapoo. The use of treats is always coupled with praise. While giving the food reward, say something like "Good dog" in a happy tone of voice.
While positive reinforcement is the most widely used training method, others opt to go for correction-based training method such as the use of training collars. This collar has a receiver that emits shock every time the dog did something unacceptable. The trainer is the one carrying and controlling the transmitter. This method aims to train the dog to associate the unacceptable or negative behavior with shock thus will eventually learn not to do the behavior again.
Though the first two methods mentioned are often proven effective by many dog owners, there are still people who chose to punish their pets to correct or train them of what is right and acceptable. But instead of making things right, punishing a dog may yield problems such as aggression and other behavior related problems. Would you want your dog to get scared to urinate when you are around? Probably you do not want a timid and submissive dog right? Simply put, punishment will only do more harm than good. As much as possible, please avoid using it.
You may find it difficult but with these cockapoo training tips, will surely have a well behaved cockapoo in due time.
By: Richard Cussons
Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts
Salmonella and Turtles
There are many people who want to adopt these cute little pets but want to know what the link is between Salmonella and turtles. Most are probably already aware of the Salmonella threat that lies in turtles. The same people may wonder if there is a way to find a turtle without it, or possibly rid them of it by cleaning.
Unfortunately, most turtle lovers will find themselves out of luck as turtles carry non-typhoid Salmonella (the leading cause of food infection) on their shells and skin as a part of their natural bacterial make-up. It's something that they're born with. Most cases of Salmonella caused by turtles were more often those with weakened immune systems, such as the ill or elderly, and children.
When you understand the connection between Salmonella and turtles and you still wish to adopt a turtle as a pet, the most you can do is to handle it carefully. Wash your hands after touching it, keep it out of the kitchen and away from food, do not bathe it in a kitchen or bathroom sink or a bathtub, and keep it in its cage most of the time. Also, try to keep smaller children away from it, as they may try to kiss it, or if young enough, even eat the turtle.
If you manage to follow those simple guidelines and have done your research, you can still choose to adopt one. Just remember that the risk of Salmonella and turtles will always be there. If you have a pet turtle already and feel you may have it, here are some commonly reported symptoms of Salmonella poisoning:
Nausea and Vomiting
Diarrhea (in some cases, bloody)
Stomach and Abdominal Cramping
Fever and Headache
These are signs that should begin to appear a few days after infection. Though your immune system can kill it, check in with a doctor when the symptoms emerge, especially if it worsens or feels prolonged.
On a more encouraging note, there are turtles that carry less Salmonella than others. Just be selective about which one you get. And the majority of cases reported of Salmonella and turtles were concerning young children. If you are old enough and capable, and do not have a young child living with you, you have a better chance of not getting infected. Just continue to do your best to follow the safety tips.
Turner is a professional writer, you can check out his most recent work on best popcorn maker by visiting his latest site on salton popcorn maker.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Turner_McCorn
Unfortunately, most turtle lovers will find themselves out of luck as turtles carry non-typhoid Salmonella (the leading cause of food infection) on their shells and skin as a part of their natural bacterial make-up. It's something that they're born with. Most cases of Salmonella caused by turtles were more often those with weakened immune systems, such as the ill or elderly, and children.
When you understand the connection between Salmonella and turtles and you still wish to adopt a turtle as a pet, the most you can do is to handle it carefully. Wash your hands after touching it, keep it out of the kitchen and away from food, do not bathe it in a kitchen or bathroom sink or a bathtub, and keep it in its cage most of the time. Also, try to keep smaller children away from it, as they may try to kiss it, or if young enough, even eat the turtle.
If you manage to follow those simple guidelines and have done your research, you can still choose to adopt one. Just remember that the risk of Salmonella and turtles will always be there. If you have a pet turtle already and feel you may have it, here are some commonly reported symptoms of Salmonella poisoning:
Nausea and Vomiting
Diarrhea (in some cases, bloody)
Stomach and Abdominal Cramping
Fever and Headache
These are signs that should begin to appear a few days after infection. Though your immune system can kill it, check in with a doctor when the symptoms emerge, especially if it worsens or feels prolonged.
On a more encouraging note, there are turtles that carry less Salmonella than others. Just be selective about which one you get. And the majority of cases reported of Salmonella and turtles were concerning young children. If you are old enough and capable, and do not have a young child living with you, you have a better chance of not getting infected. Just continue to do your best to follow the safety tips.
Turner is a professional writer, you can check out his most recent work on best popcorn maker by visiting his latest site on salton popcorn maker.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Turner_McCorn
Leash Training Dogs - 4 Dead Simple Steps to Stop Your Dog From Pulling on the Leash!
Leash training dogs is one of the first things you need to do if you want to walk your dog regularly. Without it you will not get any pleasure out of regular walks with your pet and will probably abandon this idea within a month or so. However, if one knows the right training methods it is possible to leash train your dog to such a level that both of you will look forwards to this activity.
Leash Training Dogs Step 1 - Choose The Right Collar
One of the first things you need to know while leash training dogs is to use a standard leather collar instead of a choke one. You want to make sure that your dog feels comfortable while wearing collar and that it doesn't hurt him. Try putting it on while he's playing or eating so that he's distracted from the fact that you're attaching an alien item to his body. Next, connect the collar with a leash and let your dog run freely with both of them until he forgets that there is something attached to his neck.
Leash Training Dogs Step 2 - Before You Take Him On A Walk...
Second step in leash training dogs is to take your dog outside. Grab the leash and make sure your dog is not jumping around and pulling you towards the door. If he does simply stop and wait for him to calm down. It can take 30 seconds or 10 minutes but be patient. Your dog needs to understand that he will not go anywhere if he doesn't stop wriggling. At the beginning take your dog to the place that he's familiar with and won't get distracted by passing cars or new people (for example your driveway).
Leash Training Dogs Step 3 - Let's Go On A Walk!
Leash training dogs is all about repetition and patience. The third step involves repeating the same thing over and over again until your dog understands the rules. Make one step and wait for your pet to join you. As soon as he does tell him to sit and reward with a treat. Make another step and once again, call your dog so that he can join you. If he tries to run somewhere else and pulls on the leash stop and tell him to come back. Again, praise him and reward for slacking the leash. You can increase the number of steps as soon as your dog starts to consistently follow your one step moves and sit when you stop.
Leash Training Dogs Step 4 - How To Make Sure That Your Pet Learned The Lesson?
Now that you know the basics of leash training dogs you can set out on a proper walk around your neighborhood. Every time your dog pulls you towards something stop and tell him to come back. You will only reward him for following your steps with a slack leash. Try changing the direction you move in rapidly and see if the dog follows. The leash can get tense only for a fraction of second, time required for your dog to acknowledge the fact and adjust his route accordingly. He needs to understand that the only chance for him to move forward is by following your steps and listening to your commands.
Now, I know how annoying it is to be walked by your dog instead of walking him. You probably got used to being pulled all over the place every time he spots something interesting. However, there is a great guide dedicated to solving this problem and you can access it instantly at http://www.IWantToTrainMyDog.info This is the exact method I used to leash train my pet and I vouch for it.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Pawel_Kalkus
Leash Training Dogs Step 1 - Choose The Right Collar
One of the first things you need to know while leash training dogs is to use a standard leather collar instead of a choke one. You want to make sure that your dog feels comfortable while wearing collar and that it doesn't hurt him. Try putting it on while he's playing or eating so that he's distracted from the fact that you're attaching an alien item to his body. Next, connect the collar with a leash and let your dog run freely with both of them until he forgets that there is something attached to his neck.
Leash Training Dogs Step 2 - Before You Take Him On A Walk...
Second step in leash training dogs is to take your dog outside. Grab the leash and make sure your dog is not jumping around and pulling you towards the door. If he does simply stop and wait for him to calm down. It can take 30 seconds or 10 minutes but be patient. Your dog needs to understand that he will not go anywhere if he doesn't stop wriggling. At the beginning take your dog to the place that he's familiar with and won't get distracted by passing cars or new people (for example your driveway).
Leash Training Dogs Step 3 - Let's Go On A Walk!
Leash training dogs is all about repetition and patience. The third step involves repeating the same thing over and over again until your dog understands the rules. Make one step and wait for your pet to join you. As soon as he does tell him to sit and reward with a treat. Make another step and once again, call your dog so that he can join you. If he tries to run somewhere else and pulls on the leash stop and tell him to come back. Again, praise him and reward for slacking the leash. You can increase the number of steps as soon as your dog starts to consistently follow your one step moves and sit when you stop.
Leash Training Dogs Step 4 - How To Make Sure That Your Pet Learned The Lesson?
Now that you know the basics of leash training dogs you can set out on a proper walk around your neighborhood. Every time your dog pulls you towards something stop and tell him to come back. You will only reward him for following your steps with a slack leash. Try changing the direction you move in rapidly and see if the dog follows. The leash can get tense only for a fraction of second, time required for your dog to acknowledge the fact and adjust his route accordingly. He needs to understand that the only chance for him to move forward is by following your steps and listening to your commands.
Now, I know how annoying it is to be walked by your dog instead of walking him. You probably got used to being pulled all over the place every time he spots something interesting. However, there is a great guide dedicated to solving this problem and you can access it instantly at http://www.IWantToTrainMyDog.info This is the exact method I used to leash train my pet and I vouch for it.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Pawel_Kalkus
Basic Labrador Training Tips For New Owners
Though most of them are fluffy and cuddly like stuffed toys, dogs will not survive on hugs, kisses or cuddles alone. Owners and potential owners must know (yet others fail to realize) that having a dog is a serious committment. You do not bring home a labrador just to cuddle and play. You must be willing to provide care, grooming, labrador training and other things a labrador needs in order to grow healthy and happy.
Although the labrador is intelligent as a breed, labrador training can be a bit challenge to first time lab owners. But with proper training tips and advice, training a labrador may not be as difficult as what it seems to be.
Positive method. A labrador is a strong and large breed with generally good temperament. Unsurprisingly, positive training method works best for this breed. Using positive reinforcement such as praise and treats can be way effective than training based on punishment.
Start early. Although you can still teach old dogs with new tricks, it is always a great idea to start training your pup as soon as possible. Puppies at six to eight weeks of age can start learning commands however, socialization should start earlier.
Short and fun training sessions. Dogs, especially puppies have short attention span, thus it is always recommended to keep the training sessions short and interesting. Training should last around 15 minutes and must include challenging activities to keep his mind and body working. Reward him with praise or treat every time the session ends so that he will associate the training with something rewarding.
Communication. Training a dog is actually more on communication. In order to achieve positive result in training, one must be able to communicate well with the pet. Naturally, dogs do not talk the way humans did. They communicate through body signals and expressions - owners must try to understand that. A dog that is ill, confused, nervous or excited will not learn efficiently so watch out for signs.
No punishment required. While training a dog can be sometimes frustrating and giving punishment can be so tempting, punishing a dog is not really a desired and effective form of training method. In fact, it will do more harm than good so avoid it as much as possible.
By: Richard Cussons
Although the labrador is intelligent as a breed, labrador training can be a bit challenge to first time lab owners. But with proper training tips and advice, training a labrador may not be as difficult as what it seems to be.
Positive method. A labrador is a strong and large breed with generally good temperament. Unsurprisingly, positive training method works best for this breed. Using positive reinforcement such as praise and treats can be way effective than training based on punishment.
Start early. Although you can still teach old dogs with new tricks, it is always a great idea to start training your pup as soon as possible. Puppies at six to eight weeks of age can start learning commands however, socialization should start earlier.
Short and fun training sessions. Dogs, especially puppies have short attention span, thus it is always recommended to keep the training sessions short and interesting. Training should last around 15 minutes and must include challenging activities to keep his mind and body working. Reward him with praise or treat every time the session ends so that he will associate the training with something rewarding.
Communication. Training a dog is actually more on communication. In order to achieve positive result in training, one must be able to communicate well with the pet. Naturally, dogs do not talk the way humans did. They communicate through body signals and expressions - owners must try to understand that. A dog that is ill, confused, nervous or excited will not learn efficiently so watch out for signs.
No punishment required. While training a dog can be sometimes frustrating and giving punishment can be so tempting, punishing a dog is not really a desired and effective form of training method. In fact, it will do more harm than good so avoid it as much as possible.
By: Richard Cussons
Dog Not Coming When Called
Every dog owner must realize the importance of his or her dog coming when called.
It is very surprising to know that a huge percentage of dog owners do not recognize this as a major training problem, until their dog starts playing up, and presents the negative behavior pattern, of on not coming when called.
What happens if your dog breaks free and runs after someone? If it has developed the negative behavior pattern, of not coming when called, then in this situation it is not safe for the person the dog is running after, or for the dog itself.
Think of how unsafe it is for the dog, if there is heavy traffic and there are a lot of cars around, when it makes a run for it, and is in the habit of not stopping, and more importantly, not coming when called.
The dog owner is to blame if his or her dog has cultivated this negative behavior pattern of not coming when called.
It all begins with the habit of letting the dog run around freely, off the leash, especially in public areas. It is quite natural for a dog to have more fun running around in a park or on the beach totally unrestricted by a leash, and above all by the presence of its owner.
The dog begins to associate the fun it has with two things (1) the absence of the owner and (2) Not being on the leash, and very regrettably the (a) presence of the owner and (b) the leash assumes huge negative values in the dogs mind.
A dog will not do or associate itself with anything it feels is negative. The owner being around has now becomes negative to the dogs need for having fun. This negative value placed on the presence of the owner results in the dog not coming when called, because it knows it cannot have any fun when it is with the owner.
Every dog owner should incorporate it in their training, the prevention of the formation of this pattern, of the dog having fun without the owner.
The fun a dog gets during the time it spends with its owner should be in no way inferior or lesser than the fun it gets running around with other dogs
Every dog owner should always be present and around when the dog is playing, to be in control, and to supervise.
Any member of the family can assume the role of 'owner'. The importance is on the presence of a 'human' who is the master, who is in control, and who is supervising. The dog should never be allowed to feel that 'fun' = 'no human master present'.
If you have allowed this to happen, then in all probabilities your dog has already developed the negative behavior of not coming when called, and it needs to be retrained, and taught to respond to the all important command 'come here'.
It would be wise for every dog owner to try and use the 'come here' command without associating anything the dog may deem negative with it.
For example if you want to give your dog a bath, do not use the 'come here' command and land the dog in a tub of soapy water immediately it responds.
Always make the dog feel happy, immediately it responds to the 'come here' command'.
You have all the time in the world to fulfill the reason as to why you called it, but first, reward it, with affection and or a treat, and your dog will not develop the negative behavior pattern of not coming when called.
Noel Benjamin D'Costa is an internet marketer who specializes in dog supplies and dog training programs. ' Dog not coming when called ' is among the various topics he has dealt with on his blogs.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Noel_DCosta
It is very surprising to know that a huge percentage of dog owners do not recognize this as a major training problem, until their dog starts playing up, and presents the negative behavior pattern, of on not coming when called.
What happens if your dog breaks free and runs after someone? If it has developed the negative behavior pattern, of not coming when called, then in this situation it is not safe for the person the dog is running after, or for the dog itself.
Think of how unsafe it is for the dog, if there is heavy traffic and there are a lot of cars around, when it makes a run for it, and is in the habit of not stopping, and more importantly, not coming when called.
The dog owner is to blame if his or her dog has cultivated this negative behavior pattern of not coming when called.
It all begins with the habit of letting the dog run around freely, off the leash, especially in public areas. It is quite natural for a dog to have more fun running around in a park or on the beach totally unrestricted by a leash, and above all by the presence of its owner.
The dog begins to associate the fun it has with two things (1) the absence of the owner and (2) Not being on the leash, and very regrettably the (a) presence of the owner and (b) the leash assumes huge negative values in the dogs mind.
A dog will not do or associate itself with anything it feels is negative. The owner being around has now becomes negative to the dogs need for having fun. This negative value placed on the presence of the owner results in the dog not coming when called, because it knows it cannot have any fun when it is with the owner.
Every dog owner should incorporate it in their training, the prevention of the formation of this pattern, of the dog having fun without the owner.
The fun a dog gets during the time it spends with its owner should be in no way inferior or lesser than the fun it gets running around with other dogs
Every dog owner should always be present and around when the dog is playing, to be in control, and to supervise.
Any member of the family can assume the role of 'owner'. The importance is on the presence of a 'human' who is the master, who is in control, and who is supervising. The dog should never be allowed to feel that 'fun' = 'no human master present'.
If you have allowed this to happen, then in all probabilities your dog has already developed the negative behavior of not coming when called, and it needs to be retrained, and taught to respond to the all important command 'come here'.
It would be wise for every dog owner to try and use the 'come here' command without associating anything the dog may deem negative with it.
For example if you want to give your dog a bath, do not use the 'come here' command and land the dog in a tub of soapy water immediately it responds.
Always make the dog feel happy, immediately it responds to the 'come here' command'.
You have all the time in the world to fulfill the reason as to why you called it, but first, reward it, with affection and or a treat, and your dog will not develop the negative behavior pattern of not coming when called.
Noel Benjamin D'Costa is an internet marketer who specializes in dog supplies and dog training programs. ' Dog not coming when called ' is among the various topics he has dealt with on his blogs.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Noel_DCosta
Dogs Feeding And Health Problems In Old Age
Old age in dogs bring many problems. Old aged dog sometimes do not get the full benefit from the diet he has been eating. He may become thin, and his coat becomes harsh and dry. In some cases, a different food, a new feeding dish, or a different person preparing the food may upset the dog.
When your old dog becomes thin and weak you should try feeding him more often. Give him two feedings instead of one per day; or three instead of two. Smaller amount at each feeding is easier on the digestive system, and don't forget a few treats now and then, such as custard.
Keep fresh drinking water available at all times. If you find an increase in the volume of water consumed, especially accompanied by increased thirst, report it to your veterinarian. Kidney deterioration is common in geriatric dogs. Medication and prescription diets may be necessary. If your old dog has heart disease or stomach or intestinal problems, special foods are available in canned conditions through your veterinarian.
Watch carefully for any changes in the appearance of your dog. The old dog cannot fight infections as effectively as in the young age. If anything seems wrong, take the temperature. Even a degree rise in the body temperature which may mean nothing in a younger dog is a danger sign in the old dogs. Though infection spreads slowly, yet it does spread. Proper treatment must begin before damaging headway is made.
Growth is also a common part of the aging process. Growths may be found on almost any part of the body. The flaps of the ears, the eyelids, and the flesh between the toes are probable places. This should receive immediate treatment by your veterinarian.
Warts on old aged dogs are usually hard, round, and smooth. They are rather common and are caused by a virus. If they become irritated or bleed, have them removed. Warts are often found in the mouth. They often disappear spontaneously without treatment. In any cases, they can be removed surgically.
Tumors of the breasts or testicles often develop in old dogs when they have not been spayed or castrated. These, unfortunately, have a high malignancy rate. Long toenails strain the feet and make walking difficult. The nails can no longer grip the ground and so they grow rapidly. An old dog's nails rarely wear down to comfortable length naturally, so it is necessary to shorten them with a nail trimmer or a coarse nail file to give the dog better footing on smooth surfaces.
Skin diseases are common health problems of dogs. In normal good condition, the dog's skin is elastic. In most breeds, the skin of the dog is a light pink color; on a few others, it is blue, dark or spotted. Part the hair and look at your dog's skin just to make sure it is healthy.
The most common trouble sign is scratching perhaps followed by the appearance of lesions, or a breaking out of blisters or bumps on the surface of the skin. Often the dog's furious scratching and biting to gain relief aggravates the condition. Consult your veterinarian at the first sign of any dermatological problem. If the problems are diagnosed and treated in the early stage, there is a better the chances of it curing quickly.
Disclaimer: This article is not meant to provide health advice and is for general information only. Always seek the insights of a qualified health professional before embarking on any health program.
Copyright © Ryan Mutt, All Rights Reserved. If you want to use this article on your website or in your ezine, make all the urls (links) active.
By: Ryan Mutt
When your old dog becomes thin and weak you should try feeding him more often. Give him two feedings instead of one per day; or three instead of two. Smaller amount at each feeding is easier on the digestive system, and don't forget a few treats now and then, such as custard.
Keep fresh drinking water available at all times. If you find an increase in the volume of water consumed, especially accompanied by increased thirst, report it to your veterinarian. Kidney deterioration is common in geriatric dogs. Medication and prescription diets may be necessary. If your old dog has heart disease or stomach or intestinal problems, special foods are available in canned conditions through your veterinarian.
Watch carefully for any changes in the appearance of your dog. The old dog cannot fight infections as effectively as in the young age. If anything seems wrong, take the temperature. Even a degree rise in the body temperature which may mean nothing in a younger dog is a danger sign in the old dogs. Though infection spreads slowly, yet it does spread. Proper treatment must begin before damaging headway is made.
Growth is also a common part of the aging process. Growths may be found on almost any part of the body. The flaps of the ears, the eyelids, and the flesh between the toes are probable places. This should receive immediate treatment by your veterinarian.
Warts on old aged dogs are usually hard, round, and smooth. They are rather common and are caused by a virus. If they become irritated or bleed, have them removed. Warts are often found in the mouth. They often disappear spontaneously without treatment. In any cases, they can be removed surgically.
Tumors of the breasts or testicles often develop in old dogs when they have not been spayed or castrated. These, unfortunately, have a high malignancy rate. Long toenails strain the feet and make walking difficult. The nails can no longer grip the ground and so they grow rapidly. An old dog's nails rarely wear down to comfortable length naturally, so it is necessary to shorten them with a nail trimmer or a coarse nail file to give the dog better footing on smooth surfaces.
Skin diseases are common health problems of dogs. In normal good condition, the dog's skin is elastic. In most breeds, the skin of the dog is a light pink color; on a few others, it is blue, dark or spotted. Part the hair and look at your dog's skin just to make sure it is healthy.
The most common trouble sign is scratching perhaps followed by the appearance of lesions, or a breaking out of blisters or bumps on the surface of the skin. Often the dog's furious scratching and biting to gain relief aggravates the condition. Consult your veterinarian at the first sign of any dermatological problem. If the problems are diagnosed and treated in the early stage, there is a better the chances of it curing quickly.
Disclaimer: This article is not meant to provide health advice and is for general information only. Always seek the insights of a qualified health professional before embarking on any health program.
Copyright © Ryan Mutt, All Rights Reserved. If you want to use this article on your website or in your ezine, make all the urls (links) active.
By: Ryan Mutt
Labrador Training To Walk on Leash
There can be various purposes of labrador training. Apart from being household pet, a labrador can be trained to become guide dog for physically handicapped persons, rescue or search dog, hunting dog, detection dog or therapy dog. But regardless of the labrador training purpose, basic training must be done in order to make advanced training less challenging.
One lesson that must be included in the basic labrador training is training a dog to walk on leash. Most dogs do not like the restriction caused by leash and collar. It is therefore important to make leash training as simple and early as soon as possible. It's good if your new family member has already been introduced to collars, but if that is not the case, there is no cause for alarm. There is still time for you to get your pet familiar and comfortable with a collar.
To start the ball rolling, happily call your pet to come to you. Place the collar when he is relaxed and playing to keep his attention away from the strange thing around his neck. He'll probably try to remove or scratch off the thing but it is important that you don't take it off. Take it off only when he is relaxed and has forgotten about it. The collar should not be too tight to give him comfort and allow him to breathe, and neither too loose for it to easily slip off your dog's head.
Once your lab is comfortable with the collar, attach the leash and leave it in a short while to get him used to it. When the leash is on, do not leave your dog unsupervised because the leash can tangled and may lead to injury. When your lab has got used to the leash, pick up the other end of the of it and start to walk around the house with your dog either beside or behind you, never ahead of you. Chances are, your dog will try to walk you or refuse to move. Use the "come" command to solve this problem. If that doesn't work, use the "come" command and gently tug the leash to get his attention. Praise or reward him if he responds to the command.
Training a labrador to walk on leash can be challenging knowing that labradors are large and strong dogs that may tend to pull a lot. The "stay" command can work wonders on this dilemma.
Keep training sessions short and enjoyable.
One lesson that must be included in the basic labrador training is training a dog to walk on leash. Most dogs do not like the restriction caused by leash and collar. It is therefore important to make leash training as simple and early as soon as possible. It's good if your new family member has already been introduced to collars, but if that is not the case, there is no cause for alarm. There is still time for you to get your pet familiar and comfortable with a collar.
To start the ball rolling, happily call your pet to come to you. Place the collar when he is relaxed and playing to keep his attention away from the strange thing around his neck. He'll probably try to remove or scratch off the thing but it is important that you don't take it off. Take it off only when he is relaxed and has forgotten about it. The collar should not be too tight to give him comfort and allow him to breathe, and neither too loose for it to easily slip off your dog's head.
Once your lab is comfortable with the collar, attach the leash and leave it in a short while to get him used to it. When the leash is on, do not leave your dog unsupervised because the leash can tangled and may lead to injury. When your lab has got used to the leash, pick up the other end of the of it and start to walk around the house with your dog either beside or behind you, never ahead of you. Chances are, your dog will try to walk you or refuse to move. Use the "come" command to solve this problem. If that doesn't work, use the "come" command and gently tug the leash to get his attention. Praise or reward him if he responds to the command.
Training a labrador to walk on leash can be challenging knowing that labradors are large and strong dogs that may tend to pull a lot. The "stay" command can work wonders on this dilemma.
Keep training sessions short and enjoyable.
Reduce Dog Aggression
To reduce aggression it helps to understand the causes. Here are the most common:
• Past Negative Experiences
• Lack of Positive Experiences
• Instinct
• Territory disputes
• Resource Guarding
• Medical Issues
• Owner anxiety (protecting owner)
Socializing your dog goes a long way toward reducing problems with others. Dogs that grew up without regular interaction with others tend to be distrusting and unsure when they encounter social situations. Being unsure of their footing, they react defensively, often with the growling, barking and lunging that make it difficult to control them around others.
When you add in instinct and a desire to guard you can end up with an explosive situation. To reduce aggression and prevent future problems, you have to use a plan that creates positive associations.
By carefully controlling the environment you can produce positive memories for your dog. Here's what to do.
3 Steps To Stop Dog Aggression
1. Identify how far away he can be without getting upset. Stay outside that line.
2. Reward him for staying cool.
3. Work to move him closer to the object that upsets him.
Your dog needs the chance to interact with other dogs that are calm and friendly. Identify dogs that you know, either through friends and family or through work, and pick the ones that will be able to assist in rehabilitating your dog.
The process of re-teaching these associations is often called "counter-conditioning." As the name implies, the goal is to change the connection that exists in your dog's mind. To do this, we must give him new experiences.
Behavioral threshold refers to the distance at which your dog can no longer calmly handle the other dog. When that line is crossed, he begins to respond with aggression instead of indifference. The goal is to reduce and eventually eliminate the distance that he needs to keep his cool.
This is done by rewarding the calm mindset at the closest distance possible. For example, on Monday you arrange to have Leslie bring her super cool dog Ralph to your local park. Leslie sits on a bench with Ralph and you take your dog to a spot 30 feet away from them. Your dog is still calm so, while he's looking at Ralph, you give him a reward and tell him he's a good dog.
On Tuesday Leslie shows up again with Ralph. This time you pick a spot 25 feet away. Your dog keeps his cool so he again gets the reward.
Wednesday you move in to 20 feet away, Thursday 15 feet, and so on until Sunday when the two are next to each other. Because your dog has been getting praise and great treats every time he looks at Ralph for the last week, he has formed a positive association with Ralph and will be more inclined to meet him with a calm mindset. When they get along you will again reward him with praise and a treat.
Suddenly this other dog Ralph has become a sign of great things. Your dog wants to see him again. That's the process of counter-conditioning.
Not every scenario will be as easy as meeting Leslie and Ralph, but the plan is the same - set up the environment, establish the safe distance, reward the calm mindset, and gradually move closer.
Remember, in counter conditioning we are dealing with a dog's emotions, not just actions, so the intention is to make those feelings better to produce an actual resolution to the problem. Flooding the dog with the stimulus or making him quiet down may well produce satisfactory outward results, but it will make the problem worse. Suppression of behavior is not solving behavior.
Dog Academy
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jon_Dakins
• Past Negative Experiences
• Lack of Positive Experiences
• Instinct
• Territory disputes
• Resource Guarding
• Medical Issues
• Owner anxiety (protecting owner)
Socializing your dog goes a long way toward reducing problems with others. Dogs that grew up without regular interaction with others tend to be distrusting and unsure when they encounter social situations. Being unsure of their footing, they react defensively, often with the growling, barking and lunging that make it difficult to control them around others.
When you add in instinct and a desire to guard you can end up with an explosive situation. To reduce aggression and prevent future problems, you have to use a plan that creates positive associations.
By carefully controlling the environment you can produce positive memories for your dog. Here's what to do.
3 Steps To Stop Dog Aggression
1. Identify how far away he can be without getting upset. Stay outside that line.
2. Reward him for staying cool.
3. Work to move him closer to the object that upsets him.
Your dog needs the chance to interact with other dogs that are calm and friendly. Identify dogs that you know, either through friends and family or through work, and pick the ones that will be able to assist in rehabilitating your dog.
The process of re-teaching these associations is often called "counter-conditioning." As the name implies, the goal is to change the connection that exists in your dog's mind. To do this, we must give him new experiences.
Behavioral threshold refers to the distance at which your dog can no longer calmly handle the other dog. When that line is crossed, he begins to respond with aggression instead of indifference. The goal is to reduce and eventually eliminate the distance that he needs to keep his cool.
This is done by rewarding the calm mindset at the closest distance possible. For example, on Monday you arrange to have Leslie bring her super cool dog Ralph to your local park. Leslie sits on a bench with Ralph and you take your dog to a spot 30 feet away from them. Your dog is still calm so, while he's looking at Ralph, you give him a reward and tell him he's a good dog.
On Tuesday Leslie shows up again with Ralph. This time you pick a spot 25 feet away. Your dog keeps his cool so he again gets the reward.
Wednesday you move in to 20 feet away, Thursday 15 feet, and so on until Sunday when the two are next to each other. Because your dog has been getting praise and great treats every time he looks at Ralph for the last week, he has formed a positive association with Ralph and will be more inclined to meet him with a calm mindset. When they get along you will again reward him with praise and a treat.
Suddenly this other dog Ralph has become a sign of great things. Your dog wants to see him again. That's the process of counter-conditioning.
Not every scenario will be as easy as meeting Leslie and Ralph, but the plan is the same - set up the environment, establish the safe distance, reward the calm mindset, and gradually move closer.
Remember, in counter conditioning we are dealing with a dog's emotions, not just actions, so the intention is to make those feelings better to produce an actual resolution to the problem. Flooding the dog with the stimulus or making him quiet down may well produce satisfactory outward results, but it will make the problem worse. Suppression of behavior is not solving behavior.
Dog Academy
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jon_Dakins
What Is The Difference Concerning A Rabbit Hutch And A Rabbit Cage?
There are a few facts about rabbits and hutches that you should know if you expect to raise a healthy and thriving bunny. You have two options when it comes to supplying housing for your rabbit: an inside bunny rabbit cage or an out-of-doors rabbit hutch. As a general rule pet rabbits are housed inside and bunny rabbits raised for meat production are grown outdoors. Nevertheless, pet bunnies can also be successfully raised out-of-doors if there is not enough room in the house.
You must know a few facts about rabbits if you expect to keep your pet bunny out-of-doors and would like to purchase or construct a rabbit hutch. An outdoor rabbit hutch is almost always manufactured in the nature of a square or rectangular room. Three sides are constructed from wood whereas the fourth side is wire. The bottom will also be manufactured with wire while the top (roof) ought to be solid and detachable for simple cleanup. The hutch will normally sit on four legs made of wood which serve a number of purposes. First, it maintains cleanliness in the interior by allowing the droppings to fall to the ground. Second, it helps keep the rabbit safe from wild predators. Third, it will make it much easier to maintain and clean. And lastly, it will protect them from direct sun, snow, or rain.
One of the benefits of a bunny hutch as opposed to an inside cage is that there will be much less cleanup duties. If you don't clean an indoor cage everyday it will usually cause smells to become fairly potent, but smells are usually not a huge issue outdoors. If you live in a small home that lacks adequate room to raise a pet rabbit inside, an outdoor hutch is most ideal. Pet bunnies can just as easily be kept outside.
One of the negatives of a hutch is that your rabbits will be subjected to bad weather conditions. Larger-sized bunnies cope better than smaller-sized ones when the temperatures plunge too low, and smaller bunny rabbits may not live through extremely cold temperatures. Varieties with very long ears can possibly have their ears stick to frozen wires which can cause injury to their long ears or even loss of life. Rabbits do best inside, but in moderate weather it is quite acceptable to house them out-of-doors.
Here are some facts about rabbits that you must know if you want to keep bunnies in an inside cage. You have two main options when buying an inside bunny cage: one level or two. Cages constructed with two levels have a ramp letting a pet bunny to scurry downstairs or upstairs as it so desires. This offers your pet a bigger area to scurry around in while not taking up any extra floor space. With this type of cage a rabbit will remain in better health as a result of the extra exercise it will get hopping between levels.
There are two key benefits when housing your critter indoors: You will not need to concern yourself with harsh weather conditions or wild predators. And seeing as they are inside, you will not be able to forget about them. You will be more apt to remove them from their cage to play with them or permit them to scuttle around awhile, which is always a good thing to do. The negative is that you will be required to clean their litter container more often. It's not a huge job, but it should be done often.
It all comes down to this: if you would like to be the owner of a pet bunny you should probably house it in an inside rabbit cage where you will be able to give them more attention and affection. If you're going to successfully raise bunnies for meat production you will in all probability raise them out-of-doors or in your garage.
By: Joshua A Harding
You must know a few facts about rabbits if you expect to keep your pet bunny out-of-doors and would like to purchase or construct a rabbit hutch. An outdoor rabbit hutch is almost always manufactured in the nature of a square or rectangular room. Three sides are constructed from wood whereas the fourth side is wire. The bottom will also be manufactured with wire while the top (roof) ought to be solid and detachable for simple cleanup. The hutch will normally sit on four legs made of wood which serve a number of purposes. First, it maintains cleanliness in the interior by allowing the droppings to fall to the ground. Second, it helps keep the rabbit safe from wild predators. Third, it will make it much easier to maintain and clean. And lastly, it will protect them from direct sun, snow, or rain.
One of the benefits of a bunny hutch as opposed to an inside cage is that there will be much less cleanup duties. If you don't clean an indoor cage everyday it will usually cause smells to become fairly potent, but smells are usually not a huge issue outdoors. If you live in a small home that lacks adequate room to raise a pet rabbit inside, an outdoor hutch is most ideal. Pet bunnies can just as easily be kept outside.
One of the negatives of a hutch is that your rabbits will be subjected to bad weather conditions. Larger-sized bunnies cope better than smaller-sized ones when the temperatures plunge too low, and smaller bunny rabbits may not live through extremely cold temperatures. Varieties with very long ears can possibly have their ears stick to frozen wires which can cause injury to their long ears or even loss of life. Rabbits do best inside, but in moderate weather it is quite acceptable to house them out-of-doors.
Here are some facts about rabbits that you must know if you want to keep bunnies in an inside cage. You have two main options when buying an inside bunny cage: one level or two. Cages constructed with two levels have a ramp letting a pet bunny to scurry downstairs or upstairs as it so desires. This offers your pet a bigger area to scurry around in while not taking up any extra floor space. With this type of cage a rabbit will remain in better health as a result of the extra exercise it will get hopping between levels.
There are two key benefits when housing your critter indoors: You will not need to concern yourself with harsh weather conditions or wild predators. And seeing as they are inside, you will not be able to forget about them. You will be more apt to remove them from their cage to play with them or permit them to scuttle around awhile, which is always a good thing to do. The negative is that you will be required to clean their litter container more often. It's not a huge job, but it should be done often.
It all comes down to this: if you would like to be the owner of a pet bunny you should probably house it in an inside rabbit cage where you will be able to give them more attention and affection. If you're going to successfully raise bunnies for meat production you will in all probability raise them out-of-doors or in your garage.
By: Joshua A Harding
A Guide To Buying My First Horse
Spring is here, and the warmer weather is on the way. As the grass starts to grow, the sun appears and nothing seems so attractive as meandering down those country lanes or cantering up the bridle paths on your own horse.
If you have only ever ridden at a riding school before, buying your first horse will be a real experience for you - and one you shouldn't go without doing some careful thinking and planning first. A horse should be your trusted companion for some time - you owe it to him to make sure you pick the right one for you. There is nothing worse for a horse than to be sold on time and time again because he was bought by the wrong person.
The person selling your ideal horse will be keen to make sure you are right for him and may even seem reluctant to part with him - if you ever feel you are being pressured into making a decision it is probably not the right horse to buy!
This article tries to give the first time buyer some tips.
Where should I look for my perfect horse?
Horses are advertised in magazines, both local and national, and in many local outlets such as notice boards in livery yards and tack shops.
Horse and Hound is a very popular source, and has a large number of horses for sale. However you do need to be quick off the mark - if you wait a couple of days you will find the best ones have been sold. Horse and Hound do carry their adverts on their internet site, and there are also many other sites offering horses for sale.
For a first horse or pony word of mouth is always a good option - your local riding school or livery yard may know of ponies or horses in the locality which may suit you and which are going to be sold, however this may not be the quickest option.
Be prepared for it to take some time to find your right partner.
Before you start looking at the adverts and especially before you go to see that first horse, be absolutely clear in your own mind:
- What is an honest assessment of your riding ability?
- What do you want to do with your horse?
- What is your budget?
When you start going out to see horses bear in mind that you have to kiss a lot of frogs before you find your prince! Finding your ideal partner for the next few years will take time and cannot be rushed. Make sure you are totally honest and keep the answers to the questions in your mind - many a person has been led astray by falling in love with a totally unsuitable mount. Remember, it is not fair on either you or the horse if you end up with an animal you cannot control or if you want to jump and the horse has a total aversion to it!
And remember, keeping a horse is an expensive business - there is no point overstretching yourself to buy him if you are going to need to buy tack as well.
Keep a clear head - and let it rule your heart!
When I go to see a horse, what should I look for?
Make sure you see the horse in the stable - don't rely on any statement that he has 'perfect stable manners', ask to see for yourself. Ideally watch him being tacked up - does he stand quietly? Horses which behave well when being ridden sometimes try to kick or bite in the stable, when being tacked up, having rugs put on or off or just when you go to fill a hay net. A horse which is difficult in the stable will make your life difficult as the owner, and if you are going to keep your horse at livery will not make you popular!
Look carefully at the horse for any signs of sweat marks. Some sellers lunge or vigorously exercise their horses just before a prospective owner turns up at the yard making them seem a much quieter ride than they really are. You can also ask about the level of exercise he has been used to - if he is used to being exercised more than you will have time for you may find you have a more excitable horse on your hands than you really want.
I have never bought a horse before - what should I do when I try it out?
If you have only had lessons before you may find yourself at a loss without an instructor standing in the middle telling you what to do. It is therefore best to decide before you go a short routine you will use that will test the horse you are trying, and allow you to assess whether it is the one for you or not.
A routine might be, walk round the ménage, halting at least once to make the horse is listening to you. Walk a 20 metre circle, watching out for the horse leaning in or out. Does he listen to your corrections? Change rein and repeat the walk exercises. Try to assess whether he bends easier on one rein or the other - not necessarily a fault as horses do tend to have a stronger rein, but it is more important that he is attentive to you!
Now put the horse into trot - watching for whether he goes forward eagerly or is reluctant. Use little leg at first - if you have been used to riding school horses they may have become 'dead to the leg'. You can always increase the leg aid, but it is preferable to do this than having the horse shoot off with you! As in walk work a circle on both reins. Does he drop out of trot as he bends? Does he try to go forward into canter? Would you be happy with this behaviour? If he is very strong, be prepared for him to be even stronger when you get him home - an energetic horse may well have been lunged before you came to see him and may be even fresher on other days!
If you are happy with the trot try a canter on each rein. He should make the upward transition smoothly when you ask him to do so.
If you want a jumping horse make sure you try him over a fence. Is he eager or does he need a lot of encouragement?
Try to decide before you visit the horse exactly what you are looking for, and what you are prepared to work with. And try to keep sensible. There is no point falling in love at first sight with a beautiful animal you cannot control - or one which is reluctant to jump when that is your reason for buying!
This is a partnership which you will have for some time - your partner should be chosen very carefully to make sure he is compatible with your level of riding, and what you want to do. Common sense should rule here - not your heart!
When I go to see a horse, should I see him ridden first?
DEFINITELY YES! If the owner says there is no one available to ride him be very wary. It may be that he is too difficult for anyone there to ride. Only attempt this is you are a very experienced rider - otherwise be prepared to walk away, or at the very least try and arrange to come back when you can see him ridden.
The current owner should ride a routine similar to the one described above to enable you to assess the horse's way of going, and how he responds. If he makes upwards transitions easily for someone else, but not for you, this could be something that can be addressed with some lessons. However, be aware - there is a saying that a horse's ability sinks to match those of its rider. Just because the horse you have fallen in love with makes flying changes on demand for its current owner, it may not make them for you if you cannot ride at that level! Your new perfectly schooled dressage horse cannot be depended on to teach
And finally
It may take a few months to find the right horse, but be assured that the wait will be worth it. One thing is probably certain - that palomino mare you had pictured yourself riding away on into the sunset may well turn out to be a bay gelding! But whatever size, colour or sex you end up with, if you have taken your time choosing you will have a wonderful partnership.
By: Keri Carrillo
If you have only ever ridden at a riding school before, buying your first horse will be a real experience for you - and one you shouldn't go without doing some careful thinking and planning first. A horse should be your trusted companion for some time - you owe it to him to make sure you pick the right one for you. There is nothing worse for a horse than to be sold on time and time again because he was bought by the wrong person.
The person selling your ideal horse will be keen to make sure you are right for him and may even seem reluctant to part with him - if you ever feel you are being pressured into making a decision it is probably not the right horse to buy!
This article tries to give the first time buyer some tips.
Where should I look for my perfect horse?
Horses are advertised in magazines, both local and national, and in many local outlets such as notice boards in livery yards and tack shops.
Horse and Hound is a very popular source, and has a large number of horses for sale. However you do need to be quick off the mark - if you wait a couple of days you will find the best ones have been sold. Horse and Hound do carry their adverts on their internet site, and there are also many other sites offering horses for sale.
For a first horse or pony word of mouth is always a good option - your local riding school or livery yard may know of ponies or horses in the locality which may suit you and which are going to be sold, however this may not be the quickest option.
Be prepared for it to take some time to find your right partner.
Before you start looking at the adverts and especially before you go to see that first horse, be absolutely clear in your own mind:
- What is an honest assessment of your riding ability?
- What do you want to do with your horse?
- What is your budget?
When you start going out to see horses bear in mind that you have to kiss a lot of frogs before you find your prince! Finding your ideal partner for the next few years will take time and cannot be rushed. Make sure you are totally honest and keep the answers to the questions in your mind - many a person has been led astray by falling in love with a totally unsuitable mount. Remember, it is not fair on either you or the horse if you end up with an animal you cannot control or if you want to jump and the horse has a total aversion to it!
And remember, keeping a horse is an expensive business - there is no point overstretching yourself to buy him if you are going to need to buy tack as well.
Keep a clear head - and let it rule your heart!
When I go to see a horse, what should I look for?
Make sure you see the horse in the stable - don't rely on any statement that he has 'perfect stable manners', ask to see for yourself. Ideally watch him being tacked up - does he stand quietly? Horses which behave well when being ridden sometimes try to kick or bite in the stable, when being tacked up, having rugs put on or off or just when you go to fill a hay net. A horse which is difficult in the stable will make your life difficult as the owner, and if you are going to keep your horse at livery will not make you popular!
Look carefully at the horse for any signs of sweat marks. Some sellers lunge or vigorously exercise their horses just before a prospective owner turns up at the yard making them seem a much quieter ride than they really are. You can also ask about the level of exercise he has been used to - if he is used to being exercised more than you will have time for you may find you have a more excitable horse on your hands than you really want.
I have never bought a horse before - what should I do when I try it out?
If you have only had lessons before you may find yourself at a loss without an instructor standing in the middle telling you what to do. It is therefore best to decide before you go a short routine you will use that will test the horse you are trying, and allow you to assess whether it is the one for you or not.
A routine might be, walk round the ménage, halting at least once to make the horse is listening to you. Walk a 20 metre circle, watching out for the horse leaning in or out. Does he listen to your corrections? Change rein and repeat the walk exercises. Try to assess whether he bends easier on one rein or the other - not necessarily a fault as horses do tend to have a stronger rein, but it is more important that he is attentive to you!
Now put the horse into trot - watching for whether he goes forward eagerly or is reluctant. Use little leg at first - if you have been used to riding school horses they may have become 'dead to the leg'. You can always increase the leg aid, but it is preferable to do this than having the horse shoot off with you! As in walk work a circle on both reins. Does he drop out of trot as he bends? Does he try to go forward into canter? Would you be happy with this behaviour? If he is very strong, be prepared for him to be even stronger when you get him home - an energetic horse may well have been lunged before you came to see him and may be even fresher on other days!
If you are happy with the trot try a canter on each rein. He should make the upward transition smoothly when you ask him to do so.
If you want a jumping horse make sure you try him over a fence. Is he eager or does he need a lot of encouragement?
Try to decide before you visit the horse exactly what you are looking for, and what you are prepared to work with. And try to keep sensible. There is no point falling in love at first sight with a beautiful animal you cannot control - or one which is reluctant to jump when that is your reason for buying!
This is a partnership which you will have for some time - your partner should be chosen very carefully to make sure he is compatible with your level of riding, and what you want to do. Common sense should rule here - not your heart!
When I go to see a horse, should I see him ridden first?
DEFINITELY YES! If the owner says there is no one available to ride him be very wary. It may be that he is too difficult for anyone there to ride. Only attempt this is you are a very experienced rider - otherwise be prepared to walk away, or at the very least try and arrange to come back when you can see him ridden.
The current owner should ride a routine similar to the one described above to enable you to assess the horse's way of going, and how he responds. If he makes upwards transitions easily for someone else, but not for you, this could be something that can be addressed with some lessons. However, be aware - there is a saying that a horse's ability sinks to match those of its rider. Just because the horse you have fallen in love with makes flying changes on demand for its current owner, it may not make them for you if you cannot ride at that level! Your new perfectly schooled dressage horse cannot be depended on to teach
And finally
It may take a few months to find the right horse, but be assured that the wait will be worth it. One thing is probably certain - that palomino mare you had pictured yourself riding away on into the sunset may well turn out to be a bay gelding! But whatever size, colour or sex you end up with, if you have taken your time choosing you will have a wonderful partnership.
By: Keri Carrillo
Keep Your Home Clean And Your Cat Healthy
There's no question that our cats are full-fledged family members. Their loyalty, their love, and their ability to comfort us are unparalleled. Sometimes, though, their hair or odors can leave an unwelcome footprint in our homes. Just as we clean up the spills made by our kids (or our spouses!), it's up to us to clean up after our cats. Luckily, there are any number of products that make pet care a breeze.
Cat Litter Boxes
Cats are generally low maintenance pets, but their litter boxes often contribute little to you home decor, and can become a smelly nuisance. Today's litter boxes, though, can bring a touch of whimsy to your interior design, while their functionality can put an end to messes and odors.
One line of litter boxes comes in an assortment of patterns and colors, from solid silver and solid black, to polka dot, leopard print and wood grain. The litter tray door pulls out, and a metal sifter rake pulls and lifts litter out of the tray for easy cleaning. Another ingenious design has a triangular shape so that you can easily place it otherwise used corner space.
If you want to make cat care even easier, self-cleaning litter boxes are the answer. One style has an internal grill that traps used litter. You simply roll the enclosed litter box on its side and remove the waste tray. Another type takes self-cleaning to the next level by having a slowly but rotating system that quietly but continuously scoops used cat litter into a receptacle. The ultimate litter box is one that automatically flushes cat waste down your toilet. Instead of cat litter, this box uses permanent granules that are washable. After your cat uses the box, the granules are automatically washed, disinfected, and dried. Liquid and any solid waste are flushed down the toilet with fresh water.
Kitty Litter
When it comes to kitty litter, many cats have a preference for one brand over another. But if you start with the right litter or are persistent, you can find kitty litter that can help eliminate odors while keep your cat healthy. One brand of kitty litter on the market not only neutralizes litter box odors, but also changes color if your cat has a urinary tract infection. Given that urinary tract infections can quickly become life threatening, early detection is key. It's also helpful to have information about a potential infection to give to your veterinarian.
Shedding Tools
Many people who love cats are troubled by allergies, or by the cat hair that clings to furniture and clothes. Products that help with shedding take one of two approaches: either they work at the source of the problem (your furry feline) or they make it a snap to clean up hair off of furniture.
Cats typically shed their undercoat (rather than the hair you see), so a product that helps you remove hair from your pet - a "furminator" of sorts - means you'll never see it on your couch. These products brush out the dead hair from the undercoat (but don't cut it), while bringing your cat's natural oils to the surface. Because this type of product also helps stops over zealous self-cleaning, your cat may be less likely to be bothered by hairballs.
Cat care isn't difficult, and the great litter boxes, kitty litter, and shedding tools make it even easier!
By: Eugenio Mccarthy
Cat Litter Boxes
Cats are generally low maintenance pets, but their litter boxes often contribute little to you home decor, and can become a smelly nuisance. Today's litter boxes, though, can bring a touch of whimsy to your interior design, while their functionality can put an end to messes and odors.
One line of litter boxes comes in an assortment of patterns and colors, from solid silver and solid black, to polka dot, leopard print and wood grain. The litter tray door pulls out, and a metal sifter rake pulls and lifts litter out of the tray for easy cleaning. Another ingenious design has a triangular shape so that you can easily place it otherwise used corner space.
If you want to make cat care even easier, self-cleaning litter boxes are the answer. One style has an internal grill that traps used litter. You simply roll the enclosed litter box on its side and remove the waste tray. Another type takes self-cleaning to the next level by having a slowly but rotating system that quietly but continuously scoops used cat litter into a receptacle. The ultimate litter box is one that automatically flushes cat waste down your toilet. Instead of cat litter, this box uses permanent granules that are washable. After your cat uses the box, the granules are automatically washed, disinfected, and dried. Liquid and any solid waste are flushed down the toilet with fresh water.
Kitty Litter
When it comes to kitty litter, many cats have a preference for one brand over another. But if you start with the right litter or are persistent, you can find kitty litter that can help eliminate odors while keep your cat healthy. One brand of kitty litter on the market not only neutralizes litter box odors, but also changes color if your cat has a urinary tract infection. Given that urinary tract infections can quickly become life threatening, early detection is key. It's also helpful to have information about a potential infection to give to your veterinarian.
Shedding Tools
Many people who love cats are troubled by allergies, or by the cat hair that clings to furniture and clothes. Products that help with shedding take one of two approaches: either they work at the source of the problem (your furry feline) or they make it a snap to clean up hair off of furniture.
Cats typically shed their undercoat (rather than the hair you see), so a product that helps you remove hair from your pet - a "furminator" of sorts - means you'll never see it on your couch. These products brush out the dead hair from the undercoat (but don't cut it), while bringing your cat's natural oils to the surface. Because this type of product also helps stops over zealous self-cleaning, your cat may be less likely to be bothered by hairballs.
Cat care isn't difficult, and the great litter boxes, kitty litter, and shedding tools make it even easier!
By: Eugenio Mccarthy
7 Tips For Choosing Dog Food
Choosing dog food can be confusing down right confusing. Due to the large number of companies offering products, and the seemingly endless variations like regular adult, adult light, and senior dog formulas. Here are seven tips for choosing dog food.
1. Company Reputation
One way to quickly narrow down your options is to buy from a company you have heard about. Many generic brands you have never heard about but often see on the grocery store shelves often have inferior ingredients.
2. Quality Ingredients
This one goes along with the company's reputation. A company with a good reputation generally put high quality ingredients into their products.
3. Primary Meat
The first ingredient on the label should be a meat. If it is some type of grain, then find another product. Quality dog food should be well over 50% meat, some people say up to 75% should be made of meat.
4. Primary Carbohydrate
Most companies use corn as the primary carbohydrate in their products because it is cheap and easily available. However brown rice is often a better choice because it is much easier for dogs to digest.
5. Dog Preferences
You could have the best pet food in the world, but if your dog doesn't like it, it doesn't matter how nutritious it is. Try out several brands and see which one they prefer.
6. Dog Life Stage
Try to find a product that matches your pet's life stage. If they are less then one year old, feed a puppy formula, if they are older then 5 to 7 years of age, feed a senior dog formula. There are even products for small breed and large breed dogs.
7. Veterinary Recommendations
When choosing dog food, its always best to talk to your veterinarian. They probably have a very good idea of which formulas are best for your pet.
By: Luke Blaise
1. Company Reputation
One way to quickly narrow down your options is to buy from a company you have heard about. Many generic brands you have never heard about but often see on the grocery store shelves often have inferior ingredients.
2. Quality Ingredients
This one goes along with the company's reputation. A company with a good reputation generally put high quality ingredients into their products.
3. Primary Meat
The first ingredient on the label should be a meat. If it is some type of grain, then find another product. Quality dog food should be well over 50% meat, some people say up to 75% should be made of meat.
4. Primary Carbohydrate
Most companies use corn as the primary carbohydrate in their products because it is cheap and easily available. However brown rice is often a better choice because it is much easier for dogs to digest.
5. Dog Preferences
You could have the best pet food in the world, but if your dog doesn't like it, it doesn't matter how nutritious it is. Try out several brands and see which one they prefer.
6. Dog Life Stage
Try to find a product that matches your pet's life stage. If they are less then one year old, feed a puppy formula, if they are older then 5 to 7 years of age, feed a senior dog formula. There are even products for small breed and large breed dogs.
7. Veterinary Recommendations
When choosing dog food, its always best to talk to your veterinarian. They probably have a very good idea of which formulas are best for your pet.
By: Luke Blaise
Taking Care Of Your Cat's Health
As a cat lover, you would naturally want to know as much as you can about your kitty's health! Your little bundle of fur can be practically considered as part of the family, so why wouldn't you make sure that he is happy and healthy?
In this article we will look at a few starting points for your cats health.
Cat health is strongly affected by what kitty eats. Obesity is a major factor in heart disease particularly as your cat gets older. Choose a pet food for your cat that is right for it's age but feed it regularly. If in doubt get your veternarians advice as your cat can have completely different nurtient needs to what you would expect!
Longhaired cats should be groomed regularly for optimum cat health. Use a pet brush and groom no less than once a week. This is a great way to bond with kitty!
The litter box can be a danger to both cat health and human health if it isn't cleaned regularly. Change your pet's litter no less than once every four days or more remembering to clear the tray of faces as since cats are very clean animals and can smell up to 10 times better than humans! Your kitty will just love you for it! Also be careful as some litter can be very dusty, which can irritate kitty's asthma.
If choosing to declaw your kitty, this can be a major factor in Cat health. If you choose to declaw your pet it is important to remember to keep them inside at all times! Although I would never recommend to declaw kitty as this is taking away what makes him a cat! Also sometimes declawing can be very painfull for your cat and he may become resentful! If you are worried about your furniture, invest in a cat scratcher and rub some cat nip over it, you will be suprised! Another option is only to trim the claws with great care.
Stressful situations like moving, travelling, natural disasters or even changes in the family can affect cat health as cats are very sensitive creatures. To minimize the effects of stress on your pet, ask your vet or pet store what to recommend to slightly sedate kitty. Cat nip is always a good option, when cat eats this plant it acts as a sedative.
Part of managing cat health is making sure dangerous poisons like antifreeze are inaccessible to your pet just as you would with your own toddler. Some household plants are fatal to cats so make sure to raise your plants and lock your toxins! If you have an indoor kitty, invest in a few cat-friendly plants such as Cat nip, Cat grass, Honeysuckle etc with the bonus of giving kitty much needed nutrients and minerals not generally found in manufactured pet food!
Cat's often have mouth diseases and this can impact cat health. Cat's are just as prone to gingivitis as humans and cats can also develop. Take kitty to the vet at least once a year to have his teeth regulary checked and cleaned, even switching to a food that prevents tatar buildup is always a bonus.
As always one of the greatest factors in cat health is deciding if your cat goes outdoors. Cars, children, other animals and toxins, ALL are all dangerous and should be avoided by keeping your cat indoors. Sometimes this isn't the solution for every kitty as you will need to stock up on the cat toys! And can be very hard to stop your kitty if he already has been accustomed to the outdoors!
By: Eugenio Mccarthy
In this article we will look at a few starting points for your cats health.
Cat health is strongly affected by what kitty eats. Obesity is a major factor in heart disease particularly as your cat gets older. Choose a pet food for your cat that is right for it's age but feed it regularly. If in doubt get your veternarians advice as your cat can have completely different nurtient needs to what you would expect!
Longhaired cats should be groomed regularly for optimum cat health. Use a pet brush and groom no less than once a week. This is a great way to bond with kitty!
The litter box can be a danger to both cat health and human health if it isn't cleaned regularly. Change your pet's litter no less than once every four days or more remembering to clear the tray of faces as since cats are very clean animals and can smell up to 10 times better than humans! Your kitty will just love you for it! Also be careful as some litter can be very dusty, which can irritate kitty's asthma.
If choosing to declaw your kitty, this can be a major factor in Cat health. If you choose to declaw your pet it is important to remember to keep them inside at all times! Although I would never recommend to declaw kitty as this is taking away what makes him a cat! Also sometimes declawing can be very painfull for your cat and he may become resentful! If you are worried about your furniture, invest in a cat scratcher and rub some cat nip over it, you will be suprised! Another option is only to trim the claws with great care.
Stressful situations like moving, travelling, natural disasters or even changes in the family can affect cat health as cats are very sensitive creatures. To minimize the effects of stress on your pet, ask your vet or pet store what to recommend to slightly sedate kitty. Cat nip is always a good option, when cat eats this plant it acts as a sedative.
Part of managing cat health is making sure dangerous poisons like antifreeze are inaccessible to your pet just as you would with your own toddler. Some household plants are fatal to cats so make sure to raise your plants and lock your toxins! If you have an indoor kitty, invest in a few cat-friendly plants such as Cat nip, Cat grass, Honeysuckle etc with the bonus of giving kitty much needed nutrients and minerals not generally found in manufactured pet food!
Cat's often have mouth diseases and this can impact cat health. Cat's are just as prone to gingivitis as humans and cats can also develop. Take kitty to the vet at least once a year to have his teeth regulary checked and cleaned, even switching to a food that prevents tatar buildup is always a bonus.
As always one of the greatest factors in cat health is deciding if your cat goes outdoors. Cars, children, other animals and toxins, ALL are all dangerous and should be avoided by keeping your cat indoors. Sometimes this isn't the solution for every kitty as you will need to stock up on the cat toys! And can be very hard to stop your kitty if he already has been accustomed to the outdoors!
By: Eugenio Mccarthy
Foods That Can Hurt Your Dog
Did you know that many foods that are good for people can actually hurt or kill your dog? Your dog’s digestive system is not designed to process many of these foods and they can cause him great harm.
Many people love to feed their dogs table scraps or whatever they themselves are eating. And they think that because the dog readily gobbles them up, it couldn’t possibly be harmful to them. But just because your dog eats these foods, that doesn’t mean they are good for them. Unlike humans, dogs and other pets cannot properly discern what is or isn’t good for them all the time.
There are some animals that can eat just about anything without experiencing any adverse effects. Unfortunately, or fortunately, (depending on how you look at it), dogs do not fall within this category.
I’ve seen people give their dogs potato chips, bacon, and other fried or salty food without realizing that the salt on these foods can cause kidney failure. The salt can also cause excessive thirst and urination, or even sodium ion poisoning. Vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, elevated body temperature, seizures and death can result.
Too much fat or fried food can cause severe stomach upset and pancreatitis.
Chocolate, coffee and caffeine can result in vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst and urination, panting, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and even death.
Other foods to avoid giving your dog or other pets are grapes and raisins, avocados, macadamia nuts, yeast dough, milk, onions, garlic, chives, alcohol, raw and under-cooked meats, eggs, and bones.
All these foods can be harmful or deadly to your pet. So stick to feeding your dog foods that were designed for him. There are many great dog foods on the market. And these won’t harm him. Ask your local veterinarian to recommend the best food for your little furry friend.
By: Pet Guy
Many people love to feed their dogs table scraps or whatever they themselves are eating. And they think that because the dog readily gobbles them up, it couldn’t possibly be harmful to them. But just because your dog eats these foods, that doesn’t mean they are good for them. Unlike humans, dogs and other pets cannot properly discern what is or isn’t good for them all the time.
There are some animals that can eat just about anything without experiencing any adverse effects. Unfortunately, or fortunately, (depending on how you look at it), dogs do not fall within this category.
I’ve seen people give their dogs potato chips, bacon, and other fried or salty food without realizing that the salt on these foods can cause kidney failure. The salt can also cause excessive thirst and urination, or even sodium ion poisoning. Vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, elevated body temperature, seizures and death can result.
Too much fat or fried food can cause severe stomach upset and pancreatitis.
Chocolate, coffee and caffeine can result in vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst and urination, panting, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and even death.
Other foods to avoid giving your dog or other pets are grapes and raisins, avocados, macadamia nuts, yeast dough, milk, onions, garlic, chives, alcohol, raw and under-cooked meats, eggs, and bones.
All these foods can be harmful or deadly to your pet. So stick to feeding your dog foods that were designed for him. There are many great dog foods on the market. And these won’t harm him. Ask your local veterinarian to recommend the best food for your little furry friend.
By: Pet Guy
All About Dog Pedicures!
A pedicure for dogs is just how it sounds. It is very similar to a pedicure for humans, although the techniques used to give a dog a pedicure is somewhat different from the ones used on humans, for many reasons.
To give a dog a pedicure, there are different tools used because of the shape of the dogs toenails as well as the thickness and other characteristics. Unlike human pedicures, a pedicure for a dog is what you would call a necessity. Dog pedicures are not used as a way to relax and spend time getting a foot massage while you relax at the spa.
A pedicure for a dog is the upkeep of the toenails to keep them healthy and prevent them from hurting themselves and ruining furniture and other valuables of yours. When a dogs toenails get too long, it can be hazardous to their health. It can cause them to have misshapen toes and their toenails can break off past the quik (the part of the toenail close to the edge where there are nerves) and cause them a lot of pain.
It is important to keep your dogs toenails maintained. You can do this at home or professionally. If you choose to give your dog a pedicure at home, you need to be very careful and make sure that you have all of the necessary equipment, including good clippers and a file. You may also want to purchase a special stick that can prevent bleeding if you cut too far and damage the quik.
By: Raymond Spencer
To give a dog a pedicure, there are different tools used because of the shape of the dogs toenails as well as the thickness and other characteristics. Unlike human pedicures, a pedicure for a dog is what you would call a necessity. Dog pedicures are not used as a way to relax and spend time getting a foot massage while you relax at the spa.
A pedicure for a dog is the upkeep of the toenails to keep them healthy and prevent them from hurting themselves and ruining furniture and other valuables of yours. When a dogs toenails get too long, it can be hazardous to their health. It can cause them to have misshapen toes and their toenails can break off past the quik (the part of the toenail close to the edge where there are nerves) and cause them a lot of pain.
It is important to keep your dogs toenails maintained. You can do this at home or professionally. If you choose to give your dog a pedicure at home, you need to be very careful and make sure that you have all of the necessary equipment, including good clippers and a file. You may also want to purchase a special stick that can prevent bleeding if you cut too far and damage the quik.
By: Raymond Spencer
The Origin of Betta Fish and Their Breed Variations Explained
The beautiful colors of Betta Fish that catch our eye did not exist when the species was first discovered. Due to the fact that the Siamese people were solely interested in their fighting ability, breeding practices concentrated more on building endurance, strength, and the typical aggressive attitude that they posses. Most of the Betta Fish in those days were short-finned, so as to give their opponents less to grab on to, and had a greenish-brown color.
In 1840, when the King of Siam made a gift to Cantor, most Betta Fish colors very plain. By the time the Betta Fish began appearing up in North America, some had begun to develop rounded tails and longer fins. Some also developed specks of bright colors.
There are seems to be basic color genes either present or missing in the Beta Fish. The Base color is yellow, which is followed by black, red and then blue. There are also sub colors. The blue gene, for example, can be represented by royal blue, metallic blue, or bluish green. The beautiful royal blue is really a mixture of the other blues.
If you spend some time with Betta Fish experts and you will hear terms like "Veil Tail," "Delta Tail," "Crown Tail," and "Half Moon" hearing all of this you might become confused. So we will give you a quick introduction to the various lines of the glorious Betta Splendens. Actually, the basic difference among the types of Bettas has to do with their tail.
Veil Tail - About 80% of Betta Fishs sold in pet stores are typically VT males. Veil Tail's are characterized by the bottom fin rays being a bit longer than the top rays. What are Rays? Rays are the little "spines" you see in the fins. With the fins flared out, VT Betta Fish look a bit rectangular or even diamond shaped. Most breeders and Betta care show enthusiasts frown on the VT Betta as an inferior breed. I believe that they are incorrect because I think that the VT Betta Fishs multiple colors and wavy fins are one of the true miracles of creation.
Round Tail - The tail is round in appearance. The circular shape originates from the middle ray of the tail being the longest, with the remaining rays being progressively shorter away from the middle.
Delta Tail - The tail has a triangular shape, which emanates from the outermost rays on the tail being equal in length as the middle ray. In Betta Fish circles the widest tailed of the delta tails are the most desired.
Half Moons - A Delta Tail's tail can be so wide that it seems to form a half circle, or half moon shape. At this point it becomes known as the Half Moon Betta Fish. Half Moons Betta Fishs are popular among hard-core Betta enthusiasts.
Double Tails - These cute little fish have their tail divide into two halves. Double Tails are genetic rarities that you probably will never find at a pet store.
Crown Tails - With this Betta the rays of the tail actually extend well past the webbing, this gives the tail a spiky appearance. The Crown Tails are the most common among the single rayed. After this breeders bred double rayed Crown Tails which then had tail rays branching off. Since then breeders have developed "double double rays" and "double double double ray" Crown Tails, which are the scarcest and costliest Betta Fishes you can buy.
We hope that this information was of help to you and that it will be beneficial for your Betta Fish care needs.
by: Mike Hickmon
In 1840, when the King of Siam made a gift to Cantor, most Betta Fish colors very plain. By the time the Betta Fish began appearing up in North America, some had begun to develop rounded tails and longer fins. Some also developed specks of bright colors.
There are seems to be basic color genes either present or missing in the Beta Fish. The Base color is yellow, which is followed by black, red and then blue. There are also sub colors. The blue gene, for example, can be represented by royal blue, metallic blue, or bluish green. The beautiful royal blue is really a mixture of the other blues.
If you spend some time with Betta Fish experts and you will hear terms like "Veil Tail," "Delta Tail," "Crown Tail," and "Half Moon" hearing all of this you might become confused. So we will give you a quick introduction to the various lines of the glorious Betta Splendens. Actually, the basic difference among the types of Bettas has to do with their tail.
Veil Tail - About 80% of Betta Fishs sold in pet stores are typically VT males. Veil Tail's are characterized by the bottom fin rays being a bit longer than the top rays. What are Rays? Rays are the little "spines" you see in the fins. With the fins flared out, VT Betta Fish look a bit rectangular or even diamond shaped. Most breeders and Betta care show enthusiasts frown on the VT Betta as an inferior breed. I believe that they are incorrect because I think that the VT Betta Fishs multiple colors and wavy fins are one of the true miracles of creation.
Round Tail - The tail is round in appearance. The circular shape originates from the middle ray of the tail being the longest, with the remaining rays being progressively shorter away from the middle.
Delta Tail - The tail has a triangular shape, which emanates from the outermost rays on the tail being equal in length as the middle ray. In Betta Fish circles the widest tailed of the delta tails are the most desired.
Half Moons - A Delta Tail's tail can be so wide that it seems to form a half circle, or half moon shape. At this point it becomes known as the Half Moon Betta Fish. Half Moons Betta Fishs are popular among hard-core Betta enthusiasts.
Double Tails - These cute little fish have their tail divide into two halves. Double Tails are genetic rarities that you probably will never find at a pet store.
Crown Tails - With this Betta the rays of the tail actually extend well past the webbing, this gives the tail a spiky appearance. The Crown Tails are the most common among the single rayed. After this breeders bred double rayed Crown Tails which then had tail rays branching off. Since then breeders have developed "double double rays" and "double double double ray" Crown Tails, which are the scarcest and costliest Betta Fishes you can buy.
We hope that this information was of help to you and that it will be beneficial for your Betta Fish care needs.
by: Mike Hickmon
Differences in Professional Breeders and "Backyard" Breeders
Early in the lives of the Shih Tzu puppies, the very best of care is crucial to well-rounded Shih Tzu puppy development. Dams and their litters do not survive alone. There is more to raising Shih Tzu and the Toy breed puppies in general than truly meets the eye.
Not only does one need to carefully consider the pedigrees and health histories of each mating, but one must continue to study to become an expertise in general puppy care. Yes, there is much, much more to breeding than just putting two dogs together and allowing nature to take its course. Dog breeding is a science. It is a discipline. It is a profession.
Shih Tzu breeding must be carefully thought out and is most definitely a profession that does require specialized knowledge. Regardless of the location of your breeding establishment, whether it is in your backyard, your garage, basement or an establishment that is especially built for breeding purposes, you the breeder is who makes your establishment professional or non-professional. The breeder is who determines what type of establishment, professional or non-professional, the breeding establishment is. Location, such as the backyard, basement or buildings especially designed for breeding purposes does not determine whether or not the establishment is professional.
If a breeder fails in their responsibilities to the early lives of Shih Tzu puppies, it is either through ignorance or lack of commitment. Ignorance, lack of knowledge and lack of commitment more closely defines the “backyard” breeder, and or those raising puppies in puppy mills. The committed and professional breeder realizes there is no real profit in rearing a litter of Shih Tzu puppies other than the satisfaction of doing the best job possible.
Once Shih Tzu puppies open their eyes the real work and expense of rearing a litter begins. Shih Tzu puppies begin to display individual character traits. It is at this time that Shih Tzu puppies rely more heavily upon the breeder and less with the dam. The professional breeder recognizes and readily assumes the responsibilities of caring for a Shih Tzu litter and does not abandon them to their dam’s care alone.
A large Shih Tzu litter may require supplementary feeding while continuing to allow the dam and offspring full access to each other. Smaller or premature Shih Tzu puppies often require supplementary feeding around the clock. The healthy brood matron should be vibrant, should not carry excess weight nor appear undernourished. An emotionally and physically healthy dam consistently maintains an active and lively interest in her puppies and environment. The professional breeder must be observant enough to care for the captain (the brood matron) just as well as to care for the Shih Tzu litter providing her with adequate food, water and emotional support.
There are very distinctive differences between the “backyard” unprofessional breeder and the professional breeder, some of which are detailed here in this article. There are many other differences, far too many to mention in one article.
by: Connie Limon
Not only does one need to carefully consider the pedigrees and health histories of each mating, but one must continue to study to become an expertise in general puppy care. Yes, there is much, much more to breeding than just putting two dogs together and allowing nature to take its course. Dog breeding is a science. It is a discipline. It is a profession.
Shih Tzu breeding must be carefully thought out and is most definitely a profession that does require specialized knowledge. Regardless of the location of your breeding establishment, whether it is in your backyard, your garage, basement or an establishment that is especially built for breeding purposes, you the breeder is who makes your establishment professional or non-professional. The breeder is who determines what type of establishment, professional or non-professional, the breeding establishment is. Location, such as the backyard, basement or buildings especially designed for breeding purposes does not determine whether or not the establishment is professional.
If a breeder fails in their responsibilities to the early lives of Shih Tzu puppies, it is either through ignorance or lack of commitment. Ignorance, lack of knowledge and lack of commitment more closely defines the “backyard” breeder, and or those raising puppies in puppy mills. The committed and professional breeder realizes there is no real profit in rearing a litter of Shih Tzu puppies other than the satisfaction of doing the best job possible.
Once Shih Tzu puppies open their eyes the real work and expense of rearing a litter begins. Shih Tzu puppies begin to display individual character traits. It is at this time that Shih Tzu puppies rely more heavily upon the breeder and less with the dam. The professional breeder recognizes and readily assumes the responsibilities of caring for a Shih Tzu litter and does not abandon them to their dam’s care alone.
A large Shih Tzu litter may require supplementary feeding while continuing to allow the dam and offspring full access to each other. Smaller or premature Shih Tzu puppies often require supplementary feeding around the clock. The healthy brood matron should be vibrant, should not carry excess weight nor appear undernourished. An emotionally and physically healthy dam consistently maintains an active and lively interest in her puppies and environment. The professional breeder must be observant enough to care for the captain (the brood matron) just as well as to care for the Shih Tzu litter providing her with adequate food, water and emotional support.
There are very distinctive differences between the “backyard” unprofessional breeder and the professional breeder, some of which are detailed here in this article. There are many other differences, far too many to mention in one article.
by: Connie Limon
Tips In Choosing The Best Dog Breeders
Dog breeders could be found anywhere. However, buying the best-looking puppy in the pet store does not necessarily guarantee that you bought a pet with a top breed.
What are the different types of breeders? Which of them provide the best dog breeds?
1) Look for reputable breeders. Well known breeders know specific details about their specialized breed. They examine genetic diseases that are known to have physical and emotional impact on that breed, perform veterinary maintenance and sustain breeding records.
A breeder of good reputation will provide you with both the good and bad points about the breed you prefer. They offer useful advice and assistance to new dog owners.
You could spot a reputable breeder when they grant quality for the dogs they personally own. They would let you experience the kind of care they give the dogs and allow you to see where the dogs live.
Most outstanding breeders are not out to make money. They provide a written health guarantee with all the dogs they sell.
Majority of the reputable dog breeders belong to local or national breed organizations and clubs.
2) Avoid backyard breeders, puppy mills and pet shops.
* Backyard Breeders. These people have limited education about the breed standards. Commonly, backyard breeders do not maintain a regular check-up on the dog’s diseases and genetic makeup. Usually, these people breed to make money and allows the dogs to leave without screening the present home of the dog.
* Puppy Mills. This is a term commonly used to describe a business that produces large quantities of dogs. Majority of the puppies born and trained in puppy mills do not usually follow a regular veterinary care and appropriate feeding they need. Puppy mills do not sell directly to the public. They only allow sale to pet shops, brokers and dog auctions.
There is no generic breed testing executed in puppy mills. The dogs born here have not been adequately socialized and trained. Most of the puppies are sold in large numbers at the age of 3 to 4 weeks that could later give the dogs emotional and health problems.
* Pet shops. Many pet shops grant guarantees. However, these guarantees last for only a year while majority of genetic diseases found in dogs materialize when the animal is over a year old. Most pet shops buy their dogs from puppy mills at a very young age for a cheap price. Young puppies that are not suitably socialized could cause behavior problems and poor health.
Finding the best dog breeder means your pet could last a longer life. Find a reputable breeder now and spare yourself from possible heartache.
by: Jack Russell
What are the different types of breeders? Which of them provide the best dog breeds?
1) Look for reputable breeders. Well known breeders know specific details about their specialized breed. They examine genetic diseases that are known to have physical and emotional impact on that breed, perform veterinary maintenance and sustain breeding records.
A breeder of good reputation will provide you with both the good and bad points about the breed you prefer. They offer useful advice and assistance to new dog owners.
You could spot a reputable breeder when they grant quality for the dogs they personally own. They would let you experience the kind of care they give the dogs and allow you to see where the dogs live.
Most outstanding breeders are not out to make money. They provide a written health guarantee with all the dogs they sell.
Majority of the reputable dog breeders belong to local or national breed organizations and clubs.
2) Avoid backyard breeders, puppy mills and pet shops.
* Backyard Breeders. These people have limited education about the breed standards. Commonly, backyard breeders do not maintain a regular check-up on the dog’s diseases and genetic makeup. Usually, these people breed to make money and allows the dogs to leave without screening the present home of the dog.
* Puppy Mills. This is a term commonly used to describe a business that produces large quantities of dogs. Majority of the puppies born and trained in puppy mills do not usually follow a regular veterinary care and appropriate feeding they need. Puppy mills do not sell directly to the public. They only allow sale to pet shops, brokers and dog auctions.
There is no generic breed testing executed in puppy mills. The dogs born here have not been adequately socialized and trained. Most of the puppies are sold in large numbers at the age of 3 to 4 weeks that could later give the dogs emotional and health problems.
* Pet shops. Many pet shops grant guarantees. However, these guarantees last for only a year while majority of genetic diseases found in dogs materialize when the animal is over a year old. Most pet shops buy their dogs from puppy mills at a very young age for a cheap price. Young puppies that are not suitably socialized could cause behavior problems and poor health.
Finding the best dog breeder means your pet could last a longer life. Find a reputable breeder now and spare yourself from possible heartache.
by: Jack Russell
